Selby Winery, located in a small shopfront one block off of the Healdsburg town square, was recommended by wine maker Bill Nachbaur at Acorn. Selby had been on our “should visit sometime list” after discovering them on the web. But Bill’s recommendation was the little push that got us to go there at last. Owner-winemaker Susie Selby says, "I'm lucky. Since I only make wines I'd like to drink, I get to choose my favorite varietals and use time-honored techniques to achieve wines that are accessible now - but can be laid down for later." Our particular favorite was the 2006 Russian River Valley "Dave Selby reserve" chardonnay ($40), named after her late orthopedic surgeon dad … and only bottled in years where the chardonnay is good enough to really honor him. This wine has a surprisingly delicate, fine structure. Susie describes this wine as "soft flavors of apricot and pear expand to a honeyed, rich flavor with broad mouth-feel and hints of spicy oak." We can't argue with that. While we recommend trying all Selby's wines, a second favorite was the 2006 Sonoma County "Old Vines" zinfandel ($28). My notes say "approachable, berry nose, spice and berries on the palate."

Selby April 2009 update: We’ve just pulled the Dave Selby 2006 chardonnay out of the basement and are looking forward to consuming it at home sometime this month.